Dianne Best Personal Web Page 2018
The turret is drilled and tapped for 3 more valves (one for future use) and reinstalled.
considerable head-scratching, I decided to mount the injector between
the drivers using an existing hole in the right running board -
unfortunately the hole was plugged with the toughest piece of steel
(next to a ball bearing!)
I made a brass bushing for the hole to act as a feed-through for the 1/4" steam line and support the injector.
The previous feed water line was shortened and re-bent to end at the injector delivery port.
accept the cold water connection (at atmospheric pressure) I machined a
piece of brass stock to attach to the rear beam of the engine as an
anchor. It is drilled through and tapped to accommodate an elbow to
feed water up to the cab for the injector valve and incorporates a T
fitting to deliver water to the crosshead pumps and (future) duplex
to fit all the piping under the cab turned out to be a chore! I think I
rearranged the plumbing THREE times to fit everything in.
After revision, there are three lines between the tender and locomotive.
#1 - Tender water, atmospheric pressure, to feed the injector water valve, the crosshead pumps (one on each side)
#2 - The propane line to the burner
- The water bypass line to allow water from the pumps to be returned to
the tender. This line is also fed by the hand pump in the tender for
extra water when needed.
There had been FOUR lines and
all 4 were folded in a U shape to allow the tender and locomotive to
shift/turn relative to each other but the amount of slack was FAR in
excess of what was required. This is what the plumbing looked like
Before finishing up underneath, it was time to service the crosshead pumps.
the pumps off is a P.I.T.A.!!! They are bolted to the frame in
locations that are almost impossible to get at and pinned to the
crossheads (which requires taking the crossheads apart to get the pumps
getting the pumps off, they were dismantled and soaked
in vinegar to remove any deposits from the water, cleaned,
new packing, re-assembled, and re-installed - a job that took a full
day. Putting the pipes back on took another half a day when some shoddy
workmanship caused a fitting to break! A new fitting had to be made and
the pipe "encouraged" back into shape.
new latch was made for the firebox door, a longer one with a loop in
the end to make it easier to open with a poker. Also found that one of
the hinge pins was gone so a new pin was fashioned with chrome wire.
re enforcing bracket was also fashioned to align and stiffen the
left hand foot board and a proper hose barb was made for the brake line.
being happy with the way the water return line (pump bypass) was
arranged with copper tubing and having to add a branch for the (future)
steam pump, I decided to re-do it with scale plumbing parts. Also, the
crosshead pumps are free to float on the locomotive frame but the
plumbing connection between the pumps and the return line was far to
stiff to allow the pumps to move - that was changed with a short length
of flexible tubing.
When completed that was a strange, convoluted piece of pipe!
fabricating the return line, I needed some 'close nipples' (very short)
and needed to make a mandrel to hold the nipple while machining the
#1 for the re-fit was to revise the water glass plumbing to make the
gauge glass easier to see and to allow it to be blown down properly
(which means being able to blow steam from either the top of the glass
of the bottom out the overflow to ensure the passages are clear). The
top valve (in the next picture) closes off the bottom connection from
the boiler and the valve underneath opens the overflow.
replacing the water glass, the existing 3/8" diameter glass tubing
broke. (Don't know if it was brittle from age and heat or if I did it!)
I didn't have any 3/8" glass tubing but I have plenty of 1/2" Pyrex
tube so I decided to replace the small tube with the larger tube. I
tried modifying the 3/8 fittings for the 1/2" tube but it didn't work
very well so I decided I would have to make my own pieces for the
new water glass.
squares were cut and machined from 3/8x1" brass stock. After drilling,
the blocks were centred on the rotary table and a recess milled to
accept the end of the glass tubes and a washer.
Tie rods were cut from 1/8" diameter brass rod and threaded #6-32 to hold the whole assembly together.
Finished the water glass, except for the top pipe. That should be a whole lot easier to see and can be blown down properly.
After all the new plumbing underneath, it was time to pressurize with air and check for leaks
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